Author: Justin Luke

The name Syracuse is synonymous with antiquity, its syllables encapsulating the heart of ancient Greece, yet it nestles in the southeast corner of Sicily, on the Ionian coastline.

Straddling an islet known as Ortygia and the mainland beyond, Syracuse is a golden destination. Its honeycomb stone reflects the brilliance of Sicilian light, but the city’s true eternal glow comes from its living relationship with the past. Few places have so beautifully enfolded their ancient heritage, both artistically and literally. The Siracusa of modern-day Sicily truly owes its roots to Magna Grecia, that expansion of Greek city-states beyond the confines of the Greek archipelago.

At its height, Syracuse rivaled Athens in terms of power and cultural dominance. It attracted the greats of Greek letters and thought, from Pindar the poet, and Aeschylus the playwright, to the pioneering proto-scientist of Eureka fame, Archimedes. Such intellectual rigor wasn’t always reflected in the quality of its rulers, but the combination of tyrannical power and educational achievement gave rise to some superlative manifestations of civic construction.

Architectural Harmony

The best place to start any walking tour is the grand drawing room, otherwise known as Piazza Duomo. The cathedral, or duomo, that gives the square its name, is the town’s supreme example of harmonious architectural fusion. History is littered with the clash of religions and the hydra-like hybrids that result from subsequent building reuse – the Cordoban Mezquita and Charles V’s palace in the Alhambra are two notable examples. Few redesigns have had such uplifting results as the Syracusan duomo. The pillars of a Grecian temple have been beautifully and unobtrusively housed within Christianity’s outer shell.

At the far end of the square is the Church of Santa Lucia, an attractive edifice, but truly remarkable for the painting over its altar, The Burial of St. Lucy, by none other than Michelangelo Merisi, more commonly known as Caravaggio. The massive canvas has Caravaggio’s characteristic chiaroscuro, the play of light and shadow that so strikingly fits this Sicilian setting. Nevertheless, the work seems to betray something of his brief stop while on the run following a duel gone murderously wrong in Rome –– the background is sketchy and lacks the definite touch seen in some of his other work.

Inspired by Myth

The alleyway leading down from the church finishes above the circular pond known as the Fonte di Aretusa, Arethusa’s Fountain. Like so much of Syracuse, its origins belong to myth, the clue being found in the name Arethusa. Legend recites the eponymous nymph escaping from the river god Alpheus via an underground water source that surfaced on the island of Ortygia, at this very spot. From Virgil to Ovid and Shelley to Coleridge, poets have not been able to free themselves from Arethusa’s advances.

Beyond the spring is the Castel Maniace, a fortress built by Frederick II (Wonder of the World) and enhanced by the Aragonese and Bourbon Spanish. The castle represents the furthest point on the island of Ortygia. The Ancients stopped at Neapolis, their New Town. The remains are more prosaically enfolded by ring roads than the intricate precincts of Ortygia but, once again, the Syracusans have managed to allow their ruins space to bask under the millennial sun, surrounded yet unbowed by modernity.

Theatrical Gem

Syracuse’s magnificent Greek theater saw Aeschylan premieres and, true to its roots, is still home to seasonal performances of the Classics. It also provides a remarkable backdrop for the arias of some of Italy’s finest opera composers, performed by the likes of Andrea Bocelli.

A literal stone’s throw from the rocky upper circle is the quarry complex that contributed its mineral wealth to all these feats of antiquity. Known as the Latomie, the quarries were used as a prison, where thousands died agonizing deaths. The Latomie also bear the marks of the workmen and slaves who hacked the rock from the cliff faces. The so-called Ear of Dionysius is one such location. Originally carved out as a water storage area, it was then used to corral political prisoners. The painter, Caravaggio, coined the term, Ear of Dionysius, as his artistic eye was convinced of the lobe-like shape of the entrance. The acoustic funneling effects of the cave were, supposedly, used by the tyrant Dionysius as a way of eavesdropping on potential conspiracy.

From this brutal zenith, Syracuse declined over the centuries, to such an extent that Patrick Brydone on his 18th century travels struggled to find accommodation. Washington Irving, the writer of The Legend of Sleepy Hollow, was similarly disillusioned. Modern Syracuse has finally awoken to its potential, embracing the past with a respectful eye on antiquity’s relationship to the future.

Smack dab in the middle of Providence’s bustling Downcity neighborhood, the Dean Hotel’s name is inspired by the fact that the campuses of three famous universities are located within a 30-minute walk.

As befits its collegiate setting, the 52-room hotel offers the Ivy League panache of Brown University, the imaginative dining of Johnson & Wales University and, most notably, the design pizzazz of the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD).

The hotel strives for a party atmosphere — a painted sign on its side facade reads “For a long time, I went to bed early.” and the neon sign in my hallway proclaimed that it was “Time for another”. But my fellow guests seemed a sedate lot and the service was consistently friendly and accommodating.

Besides its proximity to the universities, the hotel is ideally situated to local institutions like the RISD Museum and the Providence Athenaeum, theaters and live music venues, and the city’s “Little Italy” neighborhood of Federal Hill.

Visitors in town for the weekend will want to make sure to check out the popular happening, Water Fire, which celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. Created by a Brown grad, this art installation involves the lighting — from sundown to midnight — of 80 braziers strategically placed amidst the Providence River and an accompanying street party of food trucks, bands, and the like.

Guest rooms feature narrow, dark plank floors, white bead board, and crisp black and white bathrooms with gleaming brass hardware.

Accents like wood blinds with black slats, vintage armchairs in British tan leather, bentwood, or jute (the pairs differ by room), and a custom-designed iron bed frame and desk produced by a local metal fabricator make for a clean industrial aesthetic.

Some guests may be troubled by the lack of a closet and the fact that the bathroom shower simply occupies a corner of the room, with no real enclosure.

Also missing, though hardly missed: a phone, alarm clock, and mini-bar. (I wouldn’t have minded an empty cooler, though.) There was an iron and a hair dryer, but they were stored, disconcertingly, under the bed.

A fleet of complimentary fixed-gear bicycles stand at the ready. Breakfast and wi-fi are also free.

At breakfast time, a mixed crowd enjoyed java from Bolt Coffee and pastries from Foremost, a local bakery. The relaxed groove and comfy atmosphere of art books, recorded jazz, fresh flowers nicely emulated time spent at the home of the eponymous (fictional) Dean.

When it came to dinner, many options awaited nearby but sticking to the confines of the hotel for one night didn’t feel like a compromise at all.

I began with dinner at Faust, a spot-on beer hall with worsts, schnitzels, and pretzels.

Then, fortified by drink, I dipped into Boombox, a karaoke bar at the back of the hotel, before slipping into a banquette at The Magdalena Room. An intimate speakeasy with classic cocktails, it’s equally great for confessional conversations and solo musings.

In the mid 1950′s Greensboro was the second largest city in North Carolina, the state’s industrial and manufacturing powerhouse, where busy textile mills and nearby furniture factories resulted in a prosperous downtown and wealthy residential neighborhoods.

In the 1960′s, however, the mills and furniture factories in Greensboro, and in nearby High Point, closed due to lower labor costs in Asia. Greensboro’s economy went into a tail spin, and the civil rights protests, which overtook the South during this period, added to the city’s malaise.

The African- American civil rights movement in the South began in the winter of 1960 in Greensboro, at the downtown Woolworth’s when four students from the city’s Agricultural & Tech College were refused service at the store’s lunch counter.

The movement quickly spread to other Woolworth’s throughout the South, which in-turn led to marches and other demonstrations and, of course, the eventual passing of the country’s Civil Rights Act of 1964.

“This first protest in downtown Greensboro helped define the city,” says Matthew Young, assistant director of the Greensboro Historical Museum. “The community came together, both whites and blacks, and in the long run, it actually made us a better city. ”

The Woolworth store and its iconic lunch counter is now the International Civil Rights Center and Museum, a major city attraction. It’s not the only change the city has seen in recent years.

A professional theatre company now occupies the former Montgomery Ward department store. Many of the city’s old apparel mills have been converted, including the Mock-Judson-Boehringer, now 150 loft-style apartments and Revolution Mill, currently home to office and event space.

The new Carolina SciQuarium, part of the Greensboro Science Center, opened this summer. At the same time, the Greensboro City Council voted to spend $60 million to build a modern, downtown performing arts center

The Greensboro Coliseum Entertainment Complex , opened in the late 1950′s, is undergoing a $24 million restoration. Greensboro also continues to expand its greenways, a city treasure that has grown to almost 90 miles of parks, biking and hiking trails, and public art projects.

The Proximity Hotel, built from the ground up in 2007, was the first LEED Platinum-certified hotel in the country, and offers boutique accommodations , as the name suggests, right in the middle of everything.

There’s more to Key West, Fla., than living in Margaritaville, that mythical party place celebrated in the Jimmy Buffett song and now franchised in restaurant and casino form.

The southernmost city in the continental U.S. boasts a vibrant local dining scene, with everything from food trucks to fine dining –– all with a relaxed, island vibe.

During a recent visit, I found a seafood haven, where fresh-caught products abound –– I could have eaten a different fish taco every day for weeks, but then I wouldn’t have had room for the famous Key West pink shrimp. Of course, I had to save room for another local favorite –– Key lime pie.

Here are some of my favorites spots, on and off bustling Duval Street, the city’s main drag.

French Connection Upon arriving, I made a beeline for La Creperie, an authentic Brittany-style restaurant owned by French natives Yolande Findlay and Sylvie Le Nouail. I could have lingered all day on the breezy front porch, enjoying my sweet breakfast red velvet crepe, with homemade raspberry chocolate ganache, fresh strawberries, almonds and English custard ice cream. Equally tempting are the savory crepes, omelets, salads and galettes –– warm pressed sandwiches on ciabatta.

Sunny Mediterranean Azur, a Mediterranean restaurant whose menu reflects chef-owners Michael Mosi and Drew Wenzel’s global travels, is worth seeking out. Situated a few blocks from Duval Street, the place serves dishes like charred octopus and braised lamb on a shady terrace or in a dining room whose cobalt blue walls evoke the Greek islands.

Hot Spot, North of Havana For the next best thing to hopping over to Cuba, I stopped by El Siboney, a Cuban-American mainstay for nearly 30 years. The casual spot is known for its filling “Cuban mix” sandwich (pork, beef, ham and cheese), as well as irresistible sides like the crispy fried yucca with garlic dipping sauce.

You’ll Want to Be Alone Blink and you will miss Garbo’s Grill, an unassuming silver cart situated near the harbor. Absolutely worth a lunch stop, Garbo’s has a surprisingly extensive menu for such a small footprint. Don’t miss the fresh fish and shrimp tacos, burritos and quesadillas cooked to order. Seating is limited to a few tiny outdoor tables, so you may have to grab and go.

Did Someone Say Pie? I couldn’t leave Key West without sampling its most famous sweet treat. With practically every cafe and restaurant touting the “best” Key lime pie on the island –– and many establishments having similar names –– it’s difficult to choose where to sample. But you can’t go wrong at Key West Key Lime Pie Co. and The Key Lime and Coconut Factory.

I also spent some quality time at Kermit’s Key West Key Lime Shoppe, a bright green-and-yellow establishment with two locations that’s been featured on the Food Network. Here you’re likely to run into the shop’s colorful owner, Kermit Carpenter, who will guide you to a range of Key Lime products, from the traditional pie to cookies to chutney to olive oil.

Cupcakes work, too For an equally satisfying sugar fix, I made it a point to stop by Key West Cakes, where gorgeous cupcakes in an array of tantalizing flavor combinations await. Think flavors of red velvet, lemon and chocolate, paired with fillings, such as guava, raspberry and passion fruit.

Take it from me: If you make Key West Cakes a stop on your daily bike ride through town, you will see the extra calories melt away –– as long as you’re in Margaritaville.